Eat, Drink, and Be Merry in Maryland (Maryland Paperback Bookshelf)

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Description

Frederick Philip Stieff, son of the piano-making Baltimore circle of relatives, used to be a celebrated amateur chef and a sort of menu historian. He made a personal crusade of collecting―mainly the use of hand-written circle of relatives papers and the memories of aged cooks―old Maryland recipes. This volume, he declares in his foreword, offers merely “a generalization, a diversification of the receipts [as he calls them] which have for decades contributed to the gastronomic supremacy of Maryland.”

Cooking and mixing instructions cover, in separate chapters, everything from oysters, a specialty of the counties bordering on the bay, to buckwheat and maple syrup, indigenous to western Maryland. Stieff fills out the stories at the back of a few of the recipes in accompanying headnotes: the recipe for Ellin North Pudding, as an example, used to be handed down by Ellin North, born in Baltimore in 1740 and later married to John Moale, the Colonel of the Baltimore Town Militia, to her great-grandson, Walter de Curzon Poultney. There are also several interesting appendices: one gives us the menu for a standard hunt breakfast at Elkridge; another spells out what used to be served at the Maryland Institute’s “Grand Banquet of the Railways Celebrations” in 1857; yet another itemizes the food that George Mann (of Mann’s Tavern, Annapolis) procured in December 1783 to stage a dinner celebrating the end of war with Britain.

“Eating in Maryland used to be a continuous feast, not alone on account of the prodigality of its table, but on account of the warmth of its ever welcoming hospitality. And certainly it sort of feels to be that in this book… the traditions of Maryland’s hospitality, a minimum of those merely of its kitchens, will be preserved for all time.”―Emily Post


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